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Daisy Build Report 1 |
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April 8, 2001
After deciding in early March to build a lightweight for
SF May 2001, we've been busy. Barring some disasters, we
should be ready with even some time for driving practice
before the event.
It's hard to express how much fun it is to work on this
thing! But if you are reading this you probably know
that already.
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The first thought: It's more fun to
build whatever you can instead of just buying
something. The second thought: That first thought
was not very smart.
Nevertheless, we didn't get past the first
thought, so we built our own speed controllers. We
decided to build the
Open Source Motor Controller, rather than just
buy speed controllers. This was quite an
interesting exercise. We'd assumed that the authors
had actually built and tested them before, but it
certainly appears not -- if you decide to give it a
try, be warned that the voltage regulation section
of the schematic and board layout is completely
messed up. And so out came the first magic smoke of
the project.
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Finally they did get built (four of
them, one for each motor). They have only been
lightly tested to this point; they should be able to
easily handle the current and voltage requirements,
but this is one potential point of failure for Daisy
-- these ESC's could get fried during combat, given
their lack of real-world testing. |
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Apparently, the normal way to handle
controlling a Battlebot is to get some simple device
to take the output from the radio receiver and feed
that directly into the ESCs attached to the motors.
Simple and elegant. "Simple and elegant" is not
our style. Therefore, Daisy's control electronics
are overpowered and complex enough to make Rube
Goldberg proud.
At its core is a processor board (stolen from
Bing) containing a 40 MHz PowerPC
microcontroller (Motorola MPC555). This runs a
control program which decodes the incoming radio
receiver channels and sends out PWM signals to the
motors. That board is in the rightmost box in the
picture.
The leftmost box (connected with a fistful of
ribbon cables) contains a custom interface board
which does further processing on the PWM signals,
routes power to the various components, provides
optical isolation between the cpu and the motor
controllers, and (as detailed in a future build
report) will provide current limiting functionality
for the weapon motor.
So here is our second potential point of
failure: that something will go wrong with the
dozens of connectors or hundreds of solder points,
or the controller board itself, or the rather
complex software, or something else.
However, this setup does give a great deal
of flexibility for turning the radio signals into
bot control, and eventually we want to add
semi-autonomous behaviors and even completely
autonomous operation, so we're all set for that.
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Batteries
We bought 30 fast-charge / fast-discharge 2400
mAH sub-C cells which got soldered into two 18v 2400
mAH packs. These then got wrapped in plastic for
insulation and then in thin stainless steel for
protection, resulting in what is seen in the
picture.
We intend to limit the weapon motor current to 30
amps or so; therefore the total current draw for the
bot shouldn't be more than 70 or 80 amps when
working really really hard. These packs in parallel
should be able to feed Daisy for five minutes or
more without blowing up. Hopefully.
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Wheels We love it when this
happens: Instead of spending $10 for something,
spend $2 plus many hours of labor. Economical? Eh.
We saw some wheels on
American Science
and Surplus's web site and they were way cheaper
than those Colson things everybody seems to use, so
what the heck? Get some of those!
Of course, they are kind of flimsy, have no
convenient way to mount them, and get terrible
traction to boot!
To fix the first two problems, we filled in the
hollow spaces in the wheels with casting resin
(results shown in the picture at left), which made
the wheels much sturdier and gave a nice solid space
to attach wheel mounts (exact method yet to be
decided).
The traction problem will be addressed by
attaching nice grippy vacuum cleaner belts to the
outside of the wheels.
The funnest part of an exercise like this is
smiling enigmatically at the hardware store cashier
while buying six different kinds of vacuum cleaner
belts.
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Drive Train Using motors
from cheap drills off an auction site takes care of
the gearing problems (we'll be running them at their
rated 18v instead of overvolting them because we're
not that confident in the gearbox), so there are
really only three issues left:
1) Attaching an axle. The drills have threaded
rods coming out of them so we figured that we would
just drill a hole in the center of a shaft and
thread that and voila. We don't have a lathe,
though, and six off center and crookedly-tapped
shafts later, we decided to just grind the end of
the motor shafts to flatten them and then stick them
into a rectangular hole in the ends of the rods. We
do have a mill, so that seems to have worked
acceptably.
2) Mounting the motors. The picture at left
shows most of the parts for this -- we have two
pillow blocks to support the weight of the bot and a
custom-made mount thing to grip the motor itself.
This mount was cut from 1/2 inch delrin and fits
perfectly. Note the section of aluminum angle stock
which will attach the mount to Daisy's base.
3) Attaching the wheels. Stay tuned.
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Here's the progress on Daisy's base,
which should be enough to make it drivable. The
bottom is 1/8 6061 aluminum, the two mounted frame
sections are 3/4 aluminum tube with 1/8 walls, and
you can see the pillow blocks for the axle ends. |
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Our radio: Futaba Skysport 6, 75
MHz, channel 78. It isn't PCM...
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